I have been collecting Native American Jewelry for over 30 years. Am I an expert, no not at all. I collect what I like. I have tried to learn along the way, but with collecting anything it gets down to your own personal taste and what you love. Let’s talk about How to Enjoy Native American Jewelry.
Steve and I have travelled to the Southwest (Santa Fe in particular,) many times over the years. I have purchased a few things on those trips, but many of my nicest pieces were purchased from a local shop that no longer exists (the owner had exquisite taste) or on eBay. I am a researcher and student by nature. If I am interested in something, I research it and try to learn as much as possible. I have done that with antiques, and anything else I collect. That is my advice to you as well if you are interested in collecting anything.
The Squash Blossom necklace is perhaps the most identifyable piece of Native American Jewelry. Originally, Native American silversmiths melted down US dollars, Mexican pesos, and any other type of silver they could find to create the Squash Blossom Necklace. “By the 1890s, turquoise was a popular addition. The squash blossom beads were originally hand stamped “bench made” to replicate “squash or pomegranate blossoms”. You can find many beautiful squash blossom necklaces on Ebay here as well as on Etsy here. I would suggest doing your research before investing in a piece of this value. If the price seems to good to be true, it probably is. If the turquoise is bright blue it may have been enhanced. Here is a picture of a beautiful vintage squash blossom necklace by Paul Livingston from Ebay.
Turquoise has been a dominant material source of Native American jewelry for centuries, but coral, onyx, spiny oyster, sugalite, gaspeite, and many other stones have been incorporated into Native American Jewelry over the years.
Each Native American piece is “rooted in the artist’s personal tribal traditions and their visual interpretation of their history”. The Navajo tribe is the largest and most well known for it’s turquoise and beautiful stamp work, “Navajo artists began working silver in the 1850s after learning the art from Mexican smiths”. The Zuni’s have perfected the art of intricate stonework. They are known for their beautiful needlepoint and petitpoint designs where tiny stones are set in intricate designs, and their animal fetishes. The Hopi tribe is known for it’s silver inlay work. The the Santo Domingo tribe is famous for their shell, silver, and turquoise jewelry. Their heishe beads beads were originally ground, drilled and strung by hand. Many are machine made today but some artists still make them in the traditional way. I am especailly fond of their pieces where they incorporate the spiny oyster shell. This is a very brief description of each tribes work. I have listed further reading at the bottom of the post.
I am particularly fond of the artists that have embraced the “old pawn style” of jewelry making. Harry Morgan was one of the pioneers of that look. I collected a few of his pieces in the late seventies and early 80’s. You can still find some of Harry’s work in fine galleries and on Ebay. This beautiful pin is priced well on Ebay in my opinion. I had a very similar pin by Harry that I sold years ago unfortunately.
There are also many other artists who embrace the old pawn style.
Here are a few artists whose work I either own or admire:
Oscar Betz
I have a pair of his earrings that I purchased in the early 80’s. He perfected what is no known as the lightweight chandelier earring back in the 70’s and 80’s. I am wearing his earrings here along with an inherited turquoise necklace and ring.
His work has become very collectible and expensive. He has taken many hiatus over the years but is back in his studio and working on a collection with Double D Ranchwear. You can read about that here.
Federico Jimenez
You can find his work on Ebay here, and on Etsy here. He does beautiful stone work but has also revived the Oaxican (Frido Kahlo style) earrings. There are now many other artists creating these as well. I purchased a pair of his earrings a few years ago. The airy style of these earrings work well in Summer when many of my other Native American earrings seem to heavy.
KEVIN BILLAH
I like his pretty naja earrings and pendants. You can find Kevin Billah’s work on eBay here, and on Etsy here.
MARY TAFOYA
Mary, a Santo Domingo artist creates beautful inlayed shell work. You can find her work on eBay here, and in many of the find galleries and shops. The work of the Santo Domingo artists also works well in the Summer heat with linen etc.
VINCENT PLATERO
I have a couple of Vincent’s bracelets that I have owned for years. You can see them in the first picture above. He does beautiful stampwork. You can find his work on eBay here, or on Etsy here.
NON NATIVE AMERICANS CREATING JEWELRY IN THE NATIVE AMERICAN STYLE
DON LUCAS
Don Lucas is not Native American but has been making jewelry in the Native American style since the 70’s. I have several of his pieces. You can purchase Don’s work on his website here, on Ebay here, or on Etsy here. Here I am wearing one of his treasure necklaces which was an inheritance from my mother-in-law who was obsessed with Native American Jewelry.
ROCKI GORMAN
Rocki has a beatiful shop in the historic La Fonda Hotel in Santa Fe and online. She is not Native American but does employ Native American Artists. She is known for her multi strand necklaces, pretty stampwork, and her chandelier earrings. She is a really nice lady and very helpful should you purchase something online. I own a couple pairs of her earrings and love them. You can occasionally find her work on eBay here, at good prices.
These are just a few of the artists whose work I admire. I find new ones all the time. If you are just beginning to collect, I would read some of these books and articles below.
Types of Native American Jewelry by Tribe
How to Collect Native American Jewelry-Mark Sublette Medicine Man Gallery
How to Buy Authentic Native American Jewelry-New Mexico Magazine
The books by Gregory Schaaf ,are a standard reference for American Indian jewelry. You can find them on Amazon or at your local library. Dr. Schaaf profiles thousands of Native American jewelers from all tribes over the past two centuries. He earned his doctorate in American Indian History and a degree in Art History at the University of California, Santa Barbara. He is the Director of the Center for Indigenous Arts & Cultures in Santa Fe.
Begin by shopping at reputable shops and galleries, and do your research. Once you have more confidence certainly shop on eBay, Etsy and other resale sites. I found a beautiful Zuni petit point bracelet that is one of my favorite pieces. I have found some of my best pieces on eBay. As I said, I am not an expert, but merely sharing some of the artists I admire and collect. Thank you for reading How to Enjoy Native American Jewelry. If you are already a collector please share some of your favorite artisans.
Hello,I’m very much in love with turquoise anything.
I also get overwhelmed with Indian market,but I can’t help myself. Last year I found an amazing silver cuff bracelet with three raised crosses with stamped crosses and tiny hearts.It was a gift ,from my husband for our 55wedding anniversary .
Thank you for your blog,I truly injoyed it .
Hi Sue
It sounds like you found a beautiful bracelet!!
A non native American making fantastic jewelry in this style is Joane Douglas, and her website is shoofly505.com I have a necklace and earrings of hers that I love!
Hi Nancy
I follow her on Instagram!
Great Post! So much information.
Hi Eileen
So glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you Eileen!
love all of the looks! I have long wanted a squash blossom necklace, but am petite and small-boned and they just seem to be overwhelming on me……wish there were more options for similar style jewelry, just not quite as large.
Hi Adele
I have seen some very petite squash blossoms. I would keep my eyes open. I bet you can find one that will suit your size!
Cindy, first let me say that you always look beautiful but the photos and outfits in this post were even more fabulous! I loved them all.
I love love love to learn new things. As I do not know much if anything about Native American jewelry I cannot wait to explore these artists. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and favorites.
Hi Elizabeth
A few of those photos were old! I had to dig to find the ones with the best examples of my pieces! I am so glad you enjoyed the post.
Absolutely beautiful. Can you tell me where your outfit is from?
Hi Susan
Could you tell me which one you are speaking of?
I have a few treasured pieces from Haida and Kwakwaka’wakwa indingenous Master Carvers Roger Smith and Don Lancaster. Here in BC, our First Nations artisans often incororate animal figures in their work and many collectors gravitate to their animal totem. The piece that ‘speaks to me’ the most is a 2″ wide sterling silver cuff with two ravens on either side of and looking up at the moon which is inlaid gold. I wear it every day with every outfit. You can stack bracelets as you acquire them (buying or inheriting). I have been told by a friend from the Squamish Nation that you should wear them with the image facing up toward you and an eagle image should be placed the highest on your arm as ‘Eagle flys the highest’.
Thanks for the tip! I had not heard that. Your bracelet sounds beautiful
I love your looks (is your first gorgeous photo of you in the Eileen Fisher separates you shared in a previous post?) Youroutfits are stunning and eye catching and I love all the information about Native American jewelry from you and all your followers. Sigh…. I hesitate to start another collection but I do LOVE all the beautiful looks!
Santa Fe is magical and spiritual, delicious and breathtaking.
I bought a chunky silver chain years ago and it is filled with charms from trips and experiences and gifts from family.
Thank you for inspiring with your style
Hi Dianne
It is not. Although it could be!! Those sweater pants were from J Crew several years ago and the turtleneck from Anthro. I think an all black column is attractive with striking jewelry
Love these pictures of you Cindy. Perfect timing to read this blog as I am in gorgeous Sedona, AZ jewelry shopping today. I always admire the chunky cross pendants you wear and would enjoy learning more about those, too.
OMG I love Sedona and I was just there! there is a little bead shop in Tlaquepaque that has beautiful beads and jewelry!
Hi Diane
We were in Sedona a couple of years ago, right before Covid. I actually did not buy a thing there, but did enjoy Garlands. I was suprised at how many trinket and t-shirt shops there were in Sedona. Beautiful scenery and great restaurants though!! We enjoyed the small town of Gerome as well.
Hi Jackie
So sorry I am so late with my reply. This week has been crazy. I hope you found some treasures in Sedona. My chunky cross came from Ebay and is by Dan Dodson.
great post on a beautiful and interesting topic My collection of Native American jewelry grew from items I found in thrift shops and flea markets. Since the railroads opened the West people have brought back jewelry from the area. I later traveled to New Mexico and other areas and purchased items directly from the artists.
Hi Karen
Isn’t it fund treasure hunting? If you know what you are looking for you can find things everywhere!
Cindy, I always love the combination of all black and a beautiful turquoise necklace…a stunning combination. Such good stuff.
Hi Mary
I agree black and turquoise can be a lovely combination!
Every piece you have on is breathtaking. I want it all!! With your shopping sites, I can shop without leaving the couch. Dangerous. Thank you for an enormously awesome article!
Hi Cherie
Thank you! Enjoy!
Love this post!! You have some beautiful pieces. Can you recommend a product to clean sterling silver and turquoise ? I have a few pieces of Native American jewelry that I cherish. I would really like to know how you clean/care for yours. Love your blog!
Michelle
Now that is a good question. I just recently cleaned most of my pieces. I researched cleaning methods and came up with nothing conclusive. If your piece is old or made to look old, over cleaning will harm the value of the piece. Here is the method I used https://www.oldtownjewels.com/2015/11/jewelry-qa-how-to-clean-.native-american-jewelry/
I have yet to tackle my concho belts. My mother in law preferred the shinier look, so the belt I inherited from her is really heavily tarnished. Both of mine that were made in the old style, are not as much. I would try the Hagerty spray being careful not to over clean. I cleaned all of mine gently with the Hagerty and put them out in the sun to dry. They now look much better. They were almost black. Hope that helps! Maybe someone else will chime in.
Thank you so much Cindy!!
Great post, Cindy! I love Turquoise jewelry and my daughter has a passion for Native American jewelry. This introduction was such good information. I am sharing it with her.
xoxo
Jan
Hi Jan
As I said, I am no expert, just a collector!
Ok you look like a million bucks in that first pic! (In all but particularly that one.) I loved your look with this jewelry that after your last post about pins, I bought one for myself on EBay. Love the look.
Hi Gray
I hope you are enjoying your new pin!! You always look gorgeous!
I love this post so much! I too, have been collecting Native American jewelry for about 30 years. We live in the Texas Panhandle, only about 5 hours from Santa Fe, so we visit fairly often. We were just there in November and again in February. We stayed at the LaFonda both times. If I get to choose, that’s where I pick. 🙂 When we were there in February, I purchased a vintage concho belt with turquoise stones – I’ve only been wanting one for 20 years. I bought it for my 65th birthday. You may know about this place, but it is called Rio Bravo. It’s located more in the railyard district. I had never been there and our friends we were traveling with took us there. It’s a really small place, but very worth your time. It’s where I bought my belt. The owner is very knowledgeable about his merchandise. My belt is about 50 years old and is from the Santo Domingo tribe and was used in dances there. The owner (Randy) also did quite a bit of the “outfitting” for the 1883 television show, featuring Harrison Ford, which is so popular right now. I’m always trying to learn more about anything Native American and your post today was full of useful links that I will take to read thoroughly. I love to visit the pueblos in person – I took my 11 year old granddaughter to visit the Taos pueblo in December while we were there on a ski trip. They have no electricity or running water there and we saw a teenage girl getting water out of the stream that runs through the pueblo. I’m so thankful for the knowledge I’m able to learn about their tribes. Their jewelry and pottery are just so beautiful and I love to purchase something, if possible, each time I’m fortunate enough to visit Santa Fe or one of the pueblos. Thank you for the time you spent on the post and for sharing your beautiful pieces. I wear all of my pieces, collected over time, every chance I get. I often get compliments on them. You just can’t beat a beautiful Native American piece of jewelry. Love the post!
Hi Denise
I am always jealous of you Texans being so close to Santa Fe. Our new neighbors live half time here and half time in Santa Fe. I have never been to the store you are speaking of. We have not been to Santa Fe much in the last 10 years. Our last trip was as a family over the Christmas holiday and it was one of the coldest weeks in History!I don’t think I bought a thing on that trip. I am hoping now that my husband is retiring, we can take a roadtrip through the Southwest! You are tempting me! Now I want to check out Rio Bravo!!
Your pieces are so fabulous that it always tempts me to make a purchase, especially now that I’m incorporating silver into my repertoire. I will take a look at some of the designers you highlight. Thanks for such a good tutorial on this type of distinctive jewelry.
Hi Wren
Maybe we need to take a girls trip to Santa Fe!!
LOVE this post!
I’ve also been wearing and collecting Native American jewelry since my teens (and that was a while ago).
I also have pieces by some of the designers you mentioned, and Santa Fe is like a second home to me as I spend a lot of time there.
Turquoise jewelry has its up and downs, but never goes out of style.
It’ll always turn heads!
Hi Gayle
I sounds like we ladies should plan a get together in Santa Fe!! Wouldn’t that be fun!! You are so right about turquoise jewelry. We all should embrace it as it is one thing that is truly a part of our heritage!
Hi Cindy,
I absolutely love your jewelry and the way you wear EVERYTHING with such style and grace! Wish I could pull off your look! I have one older turquoise ring that was my mom’s, purchased during a camping trip somewhere in the southwest back in the 50’s. I love it but need to get it out of my jewelry box and have it resized. Also a very pretty cuff silver and turquoise bracelet that was a gift from my husband. Turquoise has always been my favorite stone ( well, and diamonds too!). I appreciate all the great info here and will dive deeper. I need more beautiful pieces like yours in my life!
Xo Heidi
Hi Hedi
Pull that ring out and get it resized!!
Your fabulous style and collective looks make every one of these pieces look spectacular!
Hi Ginger
Thank you so much. I certainly enjoy my pieces.
Hi Ginger
Thank you so much!!
This post is fascinating, and filled with great information! I admire your Native American Jewelry every time you wear it. Your pieces are beautiful, especially the necklace from your MIL. It’s really a special piece. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Barb
As I said I am no authority, just a collector.
Hi Barb
I am so glad you enjoyed the post. Many have asked for one, so I finally did it!!
I too love the Native American jewelry and have several pieces. I have a question for you ….. the red, gray, and white shawl? Was it purchased online or your area? If would go so perfectly with an outfit I have. Please advise.
Hi Linda
That shawl is from Pendleton. It sold out, but maybe they will bring it back next year. I just checked. Here it is in more of a burgundy and blue
https://www.pendleton-usa.com/search/?q=featherweight+wool+scarf&lang=default
Thank you!
Cindy,
I too love Native American jewelry and have a modest collection. Surprisingly, there is a great shop in Saugatuck Michigan called Indian Summer. The owners have cultivated relationships with artists in New Mexico for decades. They buy direct from the artists. Consequently, their prices are reasonable in relation to what I see on the internet. And all their pieces are authentic. Besides jewelry, they have fetishes, rugs, Kachinas and paintings. I love to visit them yearly.
Hi Bonnie
How lucky to have an independent store near you. Many of my pieces came from a local shop in Salinas many years ago.
~ Howdy, Cindy. Thank you for this great post on one of my favourite topics: TURQUOISE! I inherited my love of Native American turquoise jewelry from my dad’s side of the family (Cherokee and Choctaw). I love turquoise so much that my jewelry box is filled with it. From a beautiful bolo tie, to turquoise slab earrings to cuff bracelets and necklaces. I would love to own a pair of Oscar Betz earrings and am still looking for the right pair. But b/c I am petite at 5’2″ tall and 124 lbs. my husband thinks Oscar Betz’s earrings would be too big on my small frame (I disagree). I also buy my turquoise gems from Brit West whom I found online back in 2012. Her turquoise stones range from Pilot Mountain to Sleeping Beauty and Royston. Her jewelry is expensive but that’s b/c she makes everything custom (not mass produced). Aside from my wedding rings, turquoise is the only stone I wear everyday. When it comes to jewelry, nothing compares to a great piece of turquoise and sterling silver. ~
This is such an excellent introduction. Love it.
Hi Cindy, I have loved that you highlight Native American pieces. I am not a Native American, but a native New Mexican living in the 4 corners region.. I began collecting in high school in the 70’s, and continue to wear Native pieces almost exclusively. i.e. everyday. Jackson Clark, owner of Tow-Atin Gallery in Durango, CO puts out a very informative newsletter every month featuring weavers, potters, and jewelry artists. http://www.toh-atin.com The gallery is a go to for consignment from collectors or their heirs that want to sell their collections. I have some great vintage pieces from these collections. Also in Durango is the second location for Sorrel Sky Gallery (the first is in Santa Fe) owned by Ben Nighthorse’s daughter, Shannon Knighthorse Campbell. The also have a great newsletter featuring their artists like Don Lucas. One of my favorite artists is Artie Yellowhorse. She lives in Albuquerque, and her daughters are now part of her business. She has a more contemporary style. Sorrel Sky also represents Ray Tracey, Daryl Begay, and of course, Ben Knighthorse. Palm’s Trading post in Albuquerque has great prices, and some nice basics like Navajo pearls. Indian Market in Santa Fe is a crazy/ overwhelming/exciting time, More laid back is the Totah Festival in Farmington, NM over Labor Day weekend. The Heard Museum in Phoenix in the spring is a great show. Many artists that live Shiprock, NM which is close to Farmington are at the Totah festival which also features a rug auction and Native Dancing. For those that are adventurous, a road trip to pawn shops in and around Shiprock, NM which on the Navajo reservation can be quite fun. Sorry, I have gone on and on, but I am very passionate about the unique art and culture of my home state. Thank you for sharing your beautiful Native American pieces! love, love, love!
Hi Robyn
I am very familiar with toh-atin and have purchased from them before. I was afraid to go down the shop path…maybe in another post…it was getting lengthy…I am glad you shared a few of yours!! I don’t think I have ever been to Palm’s if I have I don’t remember. I have been to Indian Market before but to be honest felt it overwhelming! I just poke around and find deals when I can.
I love Native American jewelry ! I have several pieces that were either gifts from my husband, or i have purchased myself. I admire your collection of pieces.
Hi Arlene
Most of my pieces are also gifts from my husband, which reminds me I was supposed to choose something for my birthday-xmas. I failed to do that!
ABSOLUTELY LOVED THIS POST! I HAVE ALWAYS LOVED TURQOUISE AND NATIVE AMERICAN JEWELRY. THANKS CINDY FOR YOUR INSPIRATION AND SHARING YOUR STYLE WITH US. I ALWAYS LOOK FORWARD TO YOUR POSTS.
Hi Sabrenia
Thank you so much for reading!
Thank you for explaining this. I’ve long admired your collections but had no idea where to start looking. You always look amazing!
Hi Jennifer
I know just enough to be dangerous!!